Less Zola, More Phoebe

We're MUCH slower than Phoebe...

I’m still running. Yes, you heard correctly!  It fell off the schedule in December, mainly due to excessive eating and drinking being my top priority over the festive period, but I’m back into it with a vengeance. 

And it has (gradually) got easier, I can now run for almost 25 minutes without stopping. This may seem paltry, but six weeks ago I could barely manage three. I've declined JT's request to join him on the 10k at the end of the  month, but maybe soon...

In addition to this, I’m…BOXING! Yes, boxing. After 3.5 years of boxing bootcamp I may not be Amir Khan but I do have a repertoire of moves, which we usually go through for fifteen minutes after the run.  Two things spur me on: 

The Route

Walk out of my front door, gaze up at the Burj Khalifa, cross over the road and head down to Burj Park. The most beautifully designed stretch of grass with paving, wooden decking, restaurants, cafes, bridges and…the world’s biggest fountains tinkling merrily as you go past. Step circuits at the Burj Plaza are almost enjoyable when Whitney is belting out ‘I will always love you’.

The Company

I find it almost impossible to run alone. Even my ipod chock full of early nineties house music struggles to keep me going. But with a companion I’m somehow spurred on. Oh, and it does mean there’s ample gossip opportunities.

Top running comments of recent weeks:

• “Does a pain in my shoulder mean I’m having a heart attack?”
• “I want to stop.” “When you want to stop think of skinny jeans.”
• “I want to stop.” “When you want to stop think of fat girls.”
• “I want to stop.” “When you want to stop think of Elle Macpherson.”
• “Please go easy on the sex noises when we’re doing the steps.”

If you see two blondes limping around Burj Park of an evening, do wave and say hello!

A Truth Universally Acknowledged....

With this attitude, the husband may take some time...

Some might say a woman without a man is like a fish without a bicycle. Well, no sane person would, but you are definitely an object of interest here in Dubai if you don't have a husband.

Add into the mix being (ahem) out of your twenties and you are regularly scrutinized by other nationalities who are often married off and up the spout at an age where I was happily raving on podiums in a lycra catsuit. Ah, those were the days.

Example below - a real conversation between a friend and her (Indian) office boy:

• Aziz: You find husband this year?
• Friend: Yes Aziz
• Aziz: Good, you need husband. You like English husband?
• Friend: I like Arabic husband
• Aziz: You speak Arabic?
• Friend: No, but I am learning
• Aziz: Good then you will find husband
• Friend: Inshallah (if God wills it)

Only in Dubai. Inshallah, indeed!

A REAL Explorer

One incredible journey

If you live in Arabia and think of exploring, one name usually springs to mind: Wilfred Thesiger.  He was an English pioneer who, in addition to globetrotting to all sorts of places around the world, spent 5 years exploring the desert with Bedouin.  He wore the clothes of the Bedouin and spoke their language; they called him Sheikh M’barak from the North, because rival tribes would have killed him if they found out he was English. He’s a legend – a real life Lawrence of Arabia and greatly admired and respected by locals here. He counted Sheikh Zayed as one of his best friends.
 

Last weekend I was lucky enough to visit a new exhibition dedicated to the great man, in Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain.

Not only is it a stunning record of his travels – beautiful sepia grainy images which have been chosen to work within the unique display environment of the fort – it’s a very moving account too.  This is an age where the only way of life was the desert way of life. No real possessions, no luxuries, just camels, the odd barasti house, if you were lucky and living off your wits and instincts.  His stories of days without food or water actually made my toes curl.  

One part which touched me the most was the story of two teenage boys who left their families and homes to explore the Empty Quarter with Thesiger for years. Their loyalty and friendship lasted long after their great adventure and they were reunited thirty years later.  Very moving.

It’s made me even more eager to visit Liwa and re-trace some of his steps, although I’ll hold my hands up: I’ll be relying on some modern comforts for that trip….

Where No Man Has Gone Before....

I do like an adventure and to try to make the best use of weekends here. Yes we do occasionally watch men in tight trousers on a Friday, and of course beach club is high on the agenda in the warmer months, but whilst it’s cold (26 degrees) it seems criminal not to get out and about exploring.

Which saw me CROSSING A MOUNTAIN PASS last weekend. Yes, you read right.  If you head into neighbouring Oman via Al Ain and Buraimi, then drive for about 30 minutes into the mountains, you find one of the most beautiful and hidden treasures: Khutwa Oasis. It’s so unknown that when asking for directions at a hotel 20 minutes away, they’d never heard of it.

After pootling through the stark Oman landscape, driving through tiny villages where life looks to have stayed the same for years, and driving up up and UP we finally crossed a teeny mountain pass. To be greeted by a flash of green in the middle of such dusty, dry scenery was pretty impressive – I squeaked very loudly. 

The oases have been in existence for thousands of years – evidenced by ancient ruins, old villages and iron smelters inside them. Walking around them in the shade of the date palms, watching workers go about their day in a way that’s been unchanged for thousands of years, is a very calming experience and so good for the soul. Dubai with its glitz and glamour seems a very very long way away.

If you haven’t been (and I’m assuming 99.9% of people won’t have) I can’t recommend it enough. We left feeling very blessed to have seen such a place and very giddy to visit the neighbouring Jazira Oasis next time.

Thanks to this journalist who described Khutwa Oasis in such enchanting detail that we just KNEW we had to go and find it. Oh and if it wasn’t for their directions we might never have found the place.

Feline Bothering

Admit, he's handsome, isn't he?

When I left the UK for Dubai, I left a variety of things behind me: friends, family, winter clothes, an umbrella and….one fat and fluffy black and white feline who went by the name of Frank. I won’t dwell  on that as it can still get me a bit misty eyed….he has a lovely new home and apparently still counts watching the telly as one of his favourite hobbies.

Anyway. It’s rare that I get to bother felines these days, but there is one rather lovely specimen. She’s black and slinky and called Molly and she lives……in our favourite Dubai pub. As cats do, these days it seems! She’s often to be found wafting around the bar stools and tables, and (as with most cats) is rather partial to anyone who has had food delivered to their table.

As is customary last Saturday night we headed to the pub for a few vinos before heading to Ravi’s for a street curry. Maybe it was the sudden drop in temperature (I was freezing even I n fur lined boots, jeans, cardigan and scarf), maybe it was the thought that I was about to order food, maybe it was just because I can talk to the animals and was once a zoo-keeper for the day…..who knows! But the slinky black cat made a veritable bee-line for my lap, did a few quick furry turns and then settled down for the evening. Then ensued a beautiful few hours of ear rubbing, chin stroking, and general feline bothering. With regular deliveries of white wine. An absolute treat.

It was hard to drag myself away from her and it did cross my mind just how lovely it would be to have a permanent furry friend at home. But in my heart of hearts, I think it’s best for cats to have some outside space – especially as so many here in Dubai are re-homed alley cats who are used to life on the mean streets.  Just another reason to move to that villa in Satwa, hey?!

National Pride

The days before the Maqta Bridge...

The UAE is (quite rightly) very proud of its heritage and has been whipped into a complete frenzy before, during and after the 40^th National Day. Of course, I was also caught up in this frenzy.  And it turns out that this frenzy has gone global.

You may have heard of Saadiyat Island – it’s just off the coast of Abu Dhabi and is famous for the Middle Eastern Louvre and Guggenheim being built there. And they also have a fabulous ’UAE Pavilion’ which I was lucky enough to visit on the way to Sade.  Designed by Lord Foster, it’s a beautiful creation, originally erected in Shanghai for last year’s World Expo, then dismantled and put back together again on Saadiyat.  Amazing.

At the moment it’s housing a celebration of the UAE.  Called The Union, it’s a selection of photographs chronicled by a fascinating man called Ronald Codrai, who lived in the Emirates when it was just a pile of sand and oil was a twinkle in the Bedouins’ eyes.

The images are huge, which makes them extremely impactful and we spent a very happy couple of hours roaming around, reading the accompanying stories and even watching specially commissioned films which documented the creation of the UAE.  It was a truly wonderful and moving experience. The exhibition ends on the 20^th, so if you haven’t seen it, you probably won’t. I’m very glad I was lucky enough to catch it.

Your Love is….FABULOUS!

She sounded just as good as she looked..

I’m fresh back from a weekend in Abu Dhabi. Thankfully the days when I used to drive there twice a week, every week, for work, are a distant memory – and long may things stay that way.  So this time when I head there it’s usually for pleasure – and oh what a pleasure it was! We fitted a lot into one weekend, but the main reason behind the visit was to see the amazing Sade in concert.

There’s something pretty great about heading to an outdoor concert in the middle of December, though I have to confess that I felt a bit chilly and had to take a scarf. And wear skinny jeans and knee high boots. Brrr!  The concert was in the purpose built Yas Arena, nest to the Formula One track. It’s an impressive piece of kit and I’ve happily danced the night away to Stevie Wonder and Britney here.

And what was Sade like? WELL. Incredible. Breathtaking. Amazing. Add as many adjectives as you like here.  Quite aside from the stunning stage show, which I really wasn’t expecting, and the superb band, have you SEEN Sade lately?  She has the skin of a 20 year old (she’s actually 52. 52!!!!) and is still whippet thin. When she emerged from the floor for the opening number in skin-tight trousers, a tight sheer top and enormous cage shoes, I cheered inside.  There’s just no excuse to slide into fat middle age anymore, is there? (Note to self: easy on the mince pies this Christmas).

The REAL Dubai

Scruffy villa, shiny skyscrapers: hello Satwa!

I’ve blogged before about how I much love Satwa.  Last Friday, when much of Dubai’s great and good were staggering around brunches, swigging beer and insulting waiters, we took a drive through Satwa.   Not the main street, but the area adjacent to Sheikh Zayed Road.  A few years ago there were plans to knock this whole area down and put a new development in its place. They started this, but thankfully didn’t finish.

It’s THE most enchanting and magical place. It has none of Dubai’s glam and glitz, which is precisely why I adore it so much. As we drove around at sunset, the adhan swooping through the open car windows, we watched the community, who usually drive our taxis, clean our floors and serve our food, hang out and relax. 

The buildings are crumbling, you dodge chickens and fat (and skinny) alley cats, if you’re lucky you even stumble across a few rogue peacocks (just how they got there from the Zabeel Place is anyone’s guess!). 

An overwhelming sense of calm always washes over me when I spend time there.  It has a spirit which is palpable.  With the glittering skyscrapers of Sheikh Zayed twinkling in the sunset next to the corrugated iron low rises, you can’t help but feel that this is the real Dubai…love it.