A REAL Explorer

One incredible journey

If you live in Arabia and think of exploring, one name usually springs to mind: Wilfred Thesiger.  He was an English pioneer who, in addition to globetrotting to all sorts of places around the world, spent 5 years exploring the desert with Bedouin.  He wore the clothes of the Bedouin and spoke their language; they called him Sheikh M’barak from the North, because rival tribes would have killed him if they found out he was English. He’s a legend – a real life Lawrence of Arabia and greatly admired and respected by locals here. He counted Sheikh Zayed as one of his best friends.
 

Last weekend I was lucky enough to visit a new exhibition dedicated to the great man, in Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain.

Not only is it a stunning record of his travels – beautiful sepia grainy images which have been chosen to work within the unique display environment of the fort – it’s a very moving account too.  This is an age where the only way of life was the desert way of life. No real possessions, no luxuries, just camels, the odd barasti house, if you were lucky and living off your wits and instincts.  His stories of days without food or water actually made my toes curl.  

One part which touched me the most was the story of two teenage boys who left their families and homes to explore the Empty Quarter with Thesiger for years. Their loyalty and friendship lasted long after their great adventure and they were reunited thirty years later.  Very moving.

It’s made me even more eager to visit Liwa and re-trace some of his steps, although I’ll hold my hands up: I’ll be relying on some modern comforts for that trip….

Why I Love Ramadan: Food and Family

Much as I love Dubai, it's great to get away at the weekend and one of my favourite places for a retreat is the beautiful city of Al Ain.  I've blogged about this before: it's a wonderful place and if you haven't been, you really should. We try to go once a month.  It's always a great contrast to the hustle and bustle and grind of Dubai - life is slower, more authentic, more real, and never moreso than during Ramadan.

Whereas in Dubai you can gaily continue to eat and drink within hotels and on their beaches, in Al Ain, hotel pool bars are closed.  There's no music blaring out, just a stillness in the air punctuated by childrens' laughter and the low chatter of the lone person on another sunbed by the pool. Bliss.

In the spirit of adhering to the customs of the Holy Month, two different things happened last weekend: one, not a drop of alcohol passed my lips during the break and two, we went out to Iftar at the most wonderful place you've ever seen.

The Heritage Village is hidden away inside one of the oases and contains amongst other things a charming cavernous restaurant, with tables as far as the eye can see.  Forget your Atmosphere in Burj Khalifa with glittering chrome and glass, this is wood panelled, with a rustic feel - amazing framed photos of falcons all over the place - no, really.  We'd been there for lunch before, and suspected that they'd be doing something special for Ramadan.  (A rather fruitless phone call hadn't really confirmed anything, which made it all more of an adventure.)!  We set out through the dark streets of Al Ain (a treat in itself to explore at night!) and made our way there.

And what a  magical sight it was....it's tradition to light up houses and buildings during Ramadan and the twinkling gorgeousness of the village really can't be explained - I wish I'd had a camera.Once inside the restaurant we were immediately fully immersed into local culture - we were the only Westerners in there (another reason why I love Al Ain) with groups of families, children and friends all meeting to share Shisha and food.  It was a truly fabulous evening and I can't wait to go back.  Ok, I'm never going to turn my back on the swish eateries of Dubai (hello, Ivy!) but this place has a very special place in my heart.  I'll say it once last time: if you haven't been to Al Ain: GO!

Getting the Hump in Al Ain

For Sale!!

Congratulations to the lovely city of Al Ain, which this week was awarded UNESCO status.  Al Ain is a beautiful place about an hour outside of Dubai, known for its greenery and for being the original home of many of the Sheikhs, before they moved to the bigger metropolises.  It's long been a favourite haunt of mine for a relaxing weekend away, with the visibly slower and calmer pace of life providing a welcome respite from a week in the washing machine that is working in Dubai.
Rather than drinking, brunching and dancing, the activities on offer involve exploring the six beautiful green oases, perhaps a drive up the huge Jebel Hafeet mountain, or (my absolute favourite) a trip to.....the camel market!!!

Yes, even after three years, my fascination, nay ADORATION of these amazing beasts has not abated one jot, and last weekend we went for our second nosy around the infamous market. It's hard to imagine the sight if you haven't witnessed it first-hand: basically there are rows and rows of large pens, full to the brim with all sorts of camels.  Goats and cows too but who cares about them when there's camels to look at!

In cooler weather you can get out of the car and stroll amongst the pens - the camel farmers are extremely welcoming and almost drag you in to fee them and learn interesting facts about the hairy creatures.  As it is, after all, a functioning market, you will also see the very serious and protracted discussions regarding camel sales....

Here's the process, as I understand it:

• Nissan truck ambles into market, with camel in the back, secured by ropes.
• Driver (owner?) gets out and crowd of potential buyers gather around the camel.
• Camel inspection: the hump is always the first thing to be examined, with a firm squeeze.
• General poking of camel.
• Camel protests, loudly, at being poke.  Hard to explain the sound but a bit like a donkey's bray crossed with a foghorn.
• Loud discussions about camel (in Arabic - oh to be able to understand the negotiations!) with lots of gesticulating and intermittent camel poking.

The outcome is different depending on deal or no deal of the camel.  By this point I am usually weak with excitement.  You'll also see teeny tiny baby camels being moved from pen to pen - comedy moments when a few make a break for "freeeeedom"!!!!.  Overlay the fact that throughout this process the camel farmers are v giddy to see a white blonde western woman in their midst and you have one magically hilarious morning.

The fun doesn't stop there, there's also shops nearby selling everything you need if you're a falcon, horse or camel owner.  Whilst I'm not interested in camel shampoo or feed, the shops are truly fascinating places, treasure troves full to the brim of super-interesting things.  And my favourite top tip: they sell the most beautiful and original camel blankets.  These are usually put over the top of the camel for decorative or warmth purposes, but they look equally lovely on the foot of the bed, or as a throw on the sofa or chaise.  They're usually brightly coloured and patterned and sometimes embellished with ribbons.  A camel has to look good!

They cost between 5 and ten English pounds, so are compete bargains.  Needless to say I left with armfuls and they are now festooned around the apartment.  One small snag, as camels (obviously) have a large hump, the rugs usually have a hole in the centre to accommodate this. You can't see it when the throw is folded, but it does make me smile every time I see it.  Off to Al Ain (again) next weekend.  If you haven' been, you really should.....