Date Time!

They're everywhere!

September and October mean lots of things: humidity so fierce my hair can be seen from the moon, the start of event season (soooo many exhibitions and client launches), but most importantly: it's date time!

Not the 'pour yourself into a sexy outfit, talk nicely to someone, make a good impression on them and try not to get too drunk' date, silly... I mean the juicy Arab treat that grows on trees!

If you drive around any of the Emirates, and especially Al Ain where you can enter the date palm oases, you'll see palm trees brimming with juicy dates.  And it's around this time that they start to be harvested. 

Now, if like me, you grew up in the UK, your experience of dates might be limited to those white oblong boxes that appeared at Christmas. There was usually a camel illustration on the box. I HATED them. Slimy, disgusting, plastic things they were, and only my mum used to indulge.

Since living in the Middle East, I've realised that fresh dates are a completely different story. I'm still not their number one fan, but I do confess to being rather partial to the variety that come stuffed with orange at Bateel. It's reminiscent of a Terry's Chocolate Orange..without the chocolate.

Like beautiful apricots! They're not...

And the absolute best? Those picked straight from the tree in Al Ain, of course.

Photo 6 - What Do You Mean There's No Greenery?!

Green, green and more green...

I'm not denying the Middle East is fulled with sand. Of course it's everywhere, when you park your car, nip to the shop, wafting in onto the balcony (even when you live on the 28th floor...how?!)

But it's not all sand you know. Venture to a city like Al An and there's so much greenery your eyes might pop out. Lush palm trees, dense vegetation, shaded oases...bliss. Amazing what you can find when you exploring...

More Buraimi Adventures!

Heaven, truly.

I blogged a few weeks ago about the joy that is to be found in Buraimi – well with joy like that just a few hours away, we just HAD to go again. Last time we explored the Qattara oasis, this time we had our sights set on the Jazira oasis instead.  

After passing through the border and heading to Jazira, it soon became clear that without a four wheel drive, we had no chance of making it through what looked like a teeny tiny mountain pass. There was a millisecond where we contemplated ditching the saloon and walking, but one look at the blazing sun and the vertical climb and we thought better of it. As I’ve since found out it’s at least a thirty minute hike from that point, I’m very glad we swerved it.

So instead we headed to a small nearby date farm, which turned out to be the best thing ever! Cool, shaded aflaj, huge pools of water…AND aflaj that clung to the side of the mountain! Yes, we rolled up our trousers and paddled all the way to the source (which looks a bit like a hole that a monster would live in.) I did not venture inside.

There’s an old abandoned village (beautiful) with some date farmers still in residence. To say they were giddy to see us is an understatement. The loveliest old man (Abdullah) welcomed us into his home and we sat on the floor with him as VIP guests. As he spoke no English, and we spoke about ten words of Arabic, conversation was hard going. 

His two assistants spoke a few more words of English and we did manage to ascertain each other’s names, jobs and original country of residence. Some things transcend words and oral communication, and the ten minutes that we spent on the floor of his extremely rustic home were just beautiful.

We left with a large bottle of spring water and a song in our hearts. Next trip is booked and in the diary.

Where No Man Has Gone Before....

I do like an adventure and to try to make the best use of weekends here. Yes we do occasionally watch men in tight trousers on a Friday, and of course beach club is high on the agenda in the warmer months, but whilst it’s cold (26 degrees) it seems criminal not to get out and about exploring.

Which saw me CROSSING A MOUNTAIN PASS last weekend. Yes, you read right.  If you head into neighbouring Oman via Al Ain and Buraimi, then drive for about 30 minutes into the mountains, you find one of the most beautiful and hidden treasures: Khutwa Oasis. It’s so unknown that when asking for directions at a hotel 20 minutes away, they’d never heard of it.

After pootling through the stark Oman landscape, driving through tiny villages where life looks to have stayed the same for years, and driving up up and UP we finally crossed a teeny mountain pass. To be greeted by a flash of green in the middle of such dusty, dry scenery was pretty impressive – I squeaked very loudly. 

The oases have been in existence for thousands of years – evidenced by ancient ruins, old villages and iron smelters inside them. Walking around them in the shade of the date palms, watching workers go about their day in a way that’s been unchanged for thousands of years, is a very calming experience and so good for the soul. Dubai with its glitz and glamour seems a very very long way away.

If you haven’t been (and I’m assuming 99.9% of people won’t have) I can’t recommend it enough. We left feeling very blessed to have seen such a place and very giddy to visit the neighbouring Jazira Oasis next time.

Thanks to this journalist who described Khutwa Oasis in such enchanting detail that we just KNEW we had to go and find it. Oh and if it wasn’t for their directions we might never have found the place.

Why I Love Ramadan: Food and Family

Much as I love Dubai, it's great to get away at the weekend and one of my favourite places for a retreat is the beautiful city of Al Ain.  I've blogged about this before: it's a wonderful place and if you haven't been, you really should. We try to go once a month.  It's always a great contrast to the hustle and bustle and grind of Dubai - life is slower, more authentic, more real, and never moreso than during Ramadan.

Whereas in Dubai you can gaily continue to eat and drink within hotels and on their beaches, in Al Ain, hotel pool bars are closed.  There's no music blaring out, just a stillness in the air punctuated by childrens' laughter and the low chatter of the lone person on another sunbed by the pool. Bliss.

In the spirit of adhering to the customs of the Holy Month, two different things happened last weekend: one, not a drop of alcohol passed my lips during the break and two, we went out to Iftar at the most wonderful place you've ever seen.

The Heritage Village is hidden away inside one of the oases and contains amongst other things a charming cavernous restaurant, with tables as far as the eye can see.  Forget your Atmosphere in Burj Khalifa with glittering chrome and glass, this is wood panelled, with a rustic feel - amazing framed photos of falcons all over the place - no, really.  We'd been there for lunch before, and suspected that they'd be doing something special for Ramadan.  (A rather fruitless phone call hadn't really confirmed anything, which made it all more of an adventure.)!  We set out through the dark streets of Al Ain (a treat in itself to explore at night!) and made our way there.

And what a  magical sight it was....it's tradition to light up houses and buildings during Ramadan and the twinkling gorgeousness of the village really can't be explained - I wish I'd had a camera.Once inside the restaurant we were immediately fully immersed into local culture - we were the only Westerners in there (another reason why I love Al Ain) with groups of families, children and friends all meeting to share Shisha and food.  It was a truly fabulous evening and I can't wait to go back.  Ok, I'm never going to turn my back on the swish eateries of Dubai (hello, Ivy!) but this place has a very special place in my heart.  I'll say it once last time: if you haven't been to Al Ain: GO!

Why I Love Ramadan: Palm Trees and Dates

What dates look like before they ripen! (Thanks to www.clearandtransparent.com)

You may have gathered that I'm a big fan of the Middle East, giddily embracing customs and traditions and trying to find out as much as possible about my home.  But over the last three years, there's something that I just can't get to grip with: dates.  Not the kind involving men and wine (that's a whole different topic!) but the foodstuff.

Dates may sound like a stereotype, but they are embedded into the culture here.  Back in the days when the glittering cities were just sand, the bedouins relied on the date palm for food, shelter, fuel and much more. I've never been a huge fan - memories of slimy boxes of inedible mush being passed around when I was a child at Christmas - but I have to say, this Ramadan, they've started to grow on me.

Dates are very popular during the Holy Month as they are used to break the fast at Iftar.  Their natural sugar helps to ease the headaches that can be brought on my hunger and dehydration and are a great way to ease your body into eating a full meal when you've been fasting for over 12 hours.  They're also packed with nutrients inclining potassium and a good source of fibre.  There's over 800 different types - who knew!

Whilst I can't claim to have been fasting this month, I have been eating less, especially when out of the office and travelling.  So dates have actually been quite handy for a slow release sugar fix before the gym, or whilst waiting patiently for dinner later in the evening.  I'm not rushing to buy them by the cartload, but I've started to appreciate them a bit more.  And after my recent weekend in Al Ain, where we picked fresh, fat, juicy dates straight from the beautiful palm trees, I'm just a little bit more of a convert....