Getting to Know You, Getting to Know All About You…..

This Taxi Driver is Holding My life Story. Probably.

Dubai taxi drivers are an institution. I’ve blogged about them manytimes before – taxis here are cheap and prolific and most of us use them as we would have used a bus in the UK. Although I’m happy to say I can’t remember using a UK bus since my University days. I shudder at the memory.

Taxi drivers have a bit of a bad reputation for driving like maniacs and being generally unhelpful when it comes to knowing where your destination is (whoops!) but in the main, I’ve always had good experiences. 

They can be quiet, surly, or even downright rude. But approximately once a month, you will get the chattiest taxi driver alive. One that probes and analyses you like a Pakistani or Indian Jeremy Paxman.

Real questions I was asked this week, on ONE short journey:

1. How long you live in Dubai?
2. You like Dubai?
3. Why you come to Dubai?
4. How long you are going to stay in Dubai?
5. Where you from?
6. Whereabouts in the UK?
7. What job do you do?
8. Is that a good job?
9. Does it pay good money? (Derisive snort from me)
10. Where you live in Dubai?
11. You like it?
12. Is it nice place?
13. Is it expensive?
14. Does your company pay your rent? (Derisive snort from me)
15. Are your parents still alive?
16. Where do they live?
17. Are they still working?
18. What does your father do as job?
19. What does your mother do as job?
20. Do you have any brothers or sisters?
21. Do you send money home and support them?
22. Have they been to Dubai?
23. Do they like Dubai?
24. How old are you?
25. Are you married?
26. Do you have any children?

I’ve had similar questions before – numbers 25 and 26 are usually the first ones that get launched into the back seat like hand grenades. But I can’t remember ever covering such a range of topics in such quick succession. To be fair, as a taxi driver, I’m sure it’s a good way to pass the time, especially if you’re a bit nosy.

I don’t mind telling you that it was quite exhausting, with him quick-firing these at me from the front seat. At the end of the journey I almost fell out of the cab onto the pavement, handing over my birth certificate and inside leg measurement, as I left, just to make sure he knew EVERY little detail of my life.

Dubai Taxi Drivers: Love them or hate them, they’re always entertaining.

Dolce and Banana

Some people are never seen again after they visit...

Back when I first arrived in Dubai, we’d heard of a mystical place. A place where Hermes handbags nestled alongside Chloe purses, all at magical prices. Of course, these items were (ahem) copies. Not the real shebang. But their quality was legendary. This place was, of course, Karama. Even my guests who have never been to Dubai before knew its name and it’s a frequent request on any stay.

The way it worked, way back then, was this: a friend of a friend of a friend recommended the name and number of ‘her guy’. This was a tried and trusted source – you would never throw yourself on the mercy of Karama without a guide. 

You then called ‘her guy’. 

Some garbled directions later and ‘her guy’ met you on the steps of Karama Fish Market.

He then led you through a maze of shops and hawkers to ‘his shop’.

Then, dear reader, all the magic of the world unfurled before you…..bags piled as high as the eye could see, secret stairways and doorways to untold purses, clutches, scarves, sunglasses and watches. I actually squealed with delight on my first visit when I saw the brand new Prada Fairy bag just sitting, waiting, for me to snap it up. 

Over the years I took HEAPS of friends and visitors to visit ‘her guy’ who quickly became ‘my guy’. One legendary trip involved 12 of us going in a three car convoy. After perusing he aisles for at least two hours,  and each person in the group buying at least 4 handbags, it was safe to say that ‘my guy’ had a very successful afternoon.

This all changed about a year ago. A police ‘crack down’ on counterfeiting meant that the stores in Karama had significantly less stock. And to top it all off, ‘my guy’ left the country. Hello, selfish?! 

This meant that trips to Karama are no longer filled with joy. As I mentioned, the stock is not what it was. Quality is poor (the Balenciaga ‘sticky zip syndrome’).  There’s also very little room for haggling these days. I’m not a massive haggler anyway – with ‘my guy’ he gave us a fixed price, which we knew was massively less than the tourists paid (we earwigged to check) thus alleviating the stress of bartering.

I had a chat with one of the shop owners recently when taking visitors. We covered quality and pricing. His take was that due to the influx of Russian shoppers, they had no need to reduce their prices, or worry about quality. The Ruskies, apparently, aren’t bothered about either of these things. Interesting.

Anyway, the good news is that I recently found a good shop. Good range, good quality and up for a bit of bartering. I could weep with relief – doing the full circuit of Karama (two hours) in 45 degree heat was beginning to be a little trying, to say the least.

I could tell you the name of my ‘new guy’ but I’d have to kill you. To avoid such extreme measures, message me, and I’ll share the new joy!

Day 20 – Vets

Camel vet, anyone?

Pet ownership is prevalent in the Western ex-pat community here, which means that there’s a growing pet care industry. We have dog groomers, walkers, sitters and of course, vets surgeries. 

In Dubai they tend to be similar to vets I would know at home, tending to small furry and feathered creatures, with the occasional exotic type: tigers, lions and cheetahs can all turn up on occasion.

If you venture out to some of the other emirates, you’ll see vets. Whole rows of them. 

But you won’t see many cats or dogs here, no, they cater for the more traditional animal: camels (natch), horses (of course) and goats. 

Here’s a couple I spotted recently. Particularly love the signage.

Day 19 – National Pride

It’s very common to see portraits of our rulers whenever you enter a significant building, from hotels to offices to government (where it’s actually law to display them). 

Love it.

There’s a protocol as to how these are displayed, from left to right (can anyone share the exact rules? I'm sure Ask Ali mentioned them recently). I love the sense of National pride here and have come to love these displays too.

Day 18 – Starting them Young

SO giddy to learn!

The UAE is sometimes accused of a lack of culture, which I dispute. There are plenty of art galleries and creative events, if you only look for them. 

Abu Dhabi’s ‘Strategic Vision 2030’ is all about positioning the Emirate as a cultural and Leisure hub – hence Saadiyat Island with its Guggenheim and Louvre.

To really ingrain an appreciation of culture , heritage and history, I’m a firm believer in starting young: with children. Which was why it was so joyful to see this group of giddy goats scampering around Al Ain Museum one weekend.

The Guggenheim it is not, but it does have some quaint displays with really interesting information. The children were having a fabulous time with worksheets and questionnaires and for a minute I was transported back to school trips in Jersey.  We too visited museums and ancient ruins, but my absolute favourite school trips were the days on the beach. 

Really, I was destined to live in a hot climate…

Day 17 – Burn Baby Burn

Hard to tell, but this is almost as big as me.

There was a time when I accumulated handbags like pigs sniff out truffles. Whilst I’m, still partial to a new bag (still searching for a brightly coloured one to replace the Kenneth Cole yellow, if anyone has any tips) I’ve found a new obsession since living in Arabia: burners.

Burners are as much a part of culture as camels, falcons and sand. They’re used to burn Oud or Bukhoor – you’ve probably smelt this gorgeous stuff if you’ve been in any Middle Eastern area.  

I adore the woody heady scent of Bukhoor and frankincense and regularly have them burning around the house. I’ve accumulated around ten of these things, traditional, patterned, plain and visiting friends say they can smell the apartment from the moment the elevator doors open!

So I was excited to see this GIANT burner on an adventure round the Emirates. Oh, how I want one…

Day 15 – My Own Private Bedouin

SO much to choose from!

In Dubai we’re very used to lots of wonderful tailors who can copy any item you own, if you take them the fabric. Which means that there’s also lots of fabric to choose from.

I’ve never seen fabric quite like this before though…..If you can wait 48 hours the tent shop can rustle you up your own bespoke tailored Bedouin sofa. They have an absolute plethora to choose from. I was in Bedouin heaven...all over this. Natch.

Day 16 – Sign of the Times

Amazing!

When I first arrived here I was gleeful and giddy to see traditional brands I knew with their Arabic logos. Armani and Marks and Spencer remain my favourites to this day. And my heart is still warmed when I see faintly familiar sights in Arabic. 

This rubbish bin illustrates this. I have no idea what the wording says. I like to think something along the lines of: “Be a dear, and pop your trash in the bin, hey?”

Day 14 – Tent Shop

One tent or two, madam?

With the glittering skyscrapers and giant malls, you’d be forgiven for forgetting that the UAE is a young country – only 40 years old. Scratch the surface and you’ll find old local shops, greengrocers, tailors…and on a trip to Al Ain, I discovered a row of…tent shops! 

Not as unusual as you might think given the region’s Bedouin roots. Before the discovery of oil and the subsequent riches of the nation, tents were shelter for travellers and homes for many. 

They’re still used for celebrations such as weddings, parties and there’s often a Bedouin-esque majilis display in some of the top hotels – the irony.

Whilst I am not a fan of camping (have we met) I will admit that these beautiful tents piqued my interest. Until the winter, I'll stick to hotels though....

Day 13 - Feathery Friends

America's Next Top Falcon

Like camels, falcons are big news in the Middle East. So much so, that there's an annual event where Falcons of the world are gathered and judged on their beauty. Yes, you heard correctly.

If you're wondering what makes a falcon attractive, then shame on you! It's things like hunting prowess, beak size, feathers and patterns.

To the untrained eye, they all look like, well, birds to me. But with many selling for tens of thousands of dollars, these feathery brethren should not be underestimated. Squawk!